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The primary purpose of my Edinburgh trip in December last year was to experience the city’s Christmas Market. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for many years. For the last three years, photos of the Edinburgh Christmas Market decorated my vision boards.
Sadly, the outbreak of a world wide pandemic shut down the Christmas Market in 2020 and 2021. Watching news in Scotland last year, I saw with excitement that the Edinburgh Christmas Market was back! I booked my trip in August.
If you’ve ever wanted to experience a European Christmas Market, consider visiting the one in Edinburgh. In addition to the market, there are other fun activities to do in the city during winter.
Save this post for information to help you plan your trip!
Edinburgh Christmas Market 2022
The festive market opened on Friday, November 25 and closed January 3, 2023. Unique Events hosted the market and the end of the year Hogmanay as well.
Hours for the market were 10:00 am until 10:00 pm daily except for a few exceptions. The event closed at 8:00 pm on Christmas Eve, closed completely for Christmas Day and opened from noon until 8:00 pm on Boxing Day. Hours on New Year’s Eve were 10:00 am until 6:00 pm and on New Year’s Day, noon until 8:00 pm.
The Christmas Market is located along the East Princes Street Gardens with entrances into the event on Waverly Bridge and off of Princes Street. While there isn’t an entry fee for the market, expect long lines on the weekends and evenings. I found weekday afternoons the least crowded.
Food and drink are available on site as are restrooms.
Edinburgh Christmas Market – a view from above
Edinburgh Christmas Market Stalls
The market featured more than 70 stalls, vendors who sold Christmas decorations, gift items, clothing, pottery, art and a vast variety of unique finds.
One of the greatest appeals of the market is wandering slowly through, weaving in and out of the stalls set up inside. In the US we have craft fairs. The Christmas Market is similar to that, in the wares that are offered. This is Scotland though so expect items unique to the country.
I spent parts of three days at the Edinburgh Christmas Market, seeing different stalls each visit. Plan to spend at least three or four hours there, more if it’s crowded.
The vendors are friendly and helpful and I thought the prices reasonable. All stalls accept debit and credit cards and cash, which in Scotland is the same as England, pounds rather than dollars.
A pottery stall at the Edinburgh Christmas MarketBeautiful, colorful ornaments and gnomes at a market stall.
Edinburgh Christmas Market Food Stalls
Among those 70+ stalls in the market is a delightful variety of food booths. If you don’t have directions to the Christmas Market, simply follow your nose. On those cold, crisp December days the aroma of hot food cooking was tantalizing.
Visitors can choose from German food or curry, hot smoked salmon or pizza, crepes and pancakes or nachos, burgers or vegan pigs in a blanket, loaded fries or vegan haggis. There truly is something for everyone there, including an assortment of sweet treats.
Enjoy a glass of mulled wine or a stein of beer, hot chocolate or a local favorite, mulled Irn Bru, cold soda or refreshing water, hot tea or egg nog. I found hot chocolate made with dairy free milk as well.
You must eat while at the Christmas Market, for the pure joy of trying different foods. I chose vegan nachos for lunch on my last day at the market, made with vegan haggis! It was delicious.
Edinburgh Christmas Market food stall.German Food at the market.
Edinburgh Christmas Market Wheel
The big Wheel at the center of the market offers riders the opportunity to see Edinburgh from a high vantage point. The cars of the Wheel are completely enclosed and provide 360 degree views of the city.
It costs 10 pounds to ride The Wheel and debit and credit cards are accepted along with cash. Expect to stand in line with shorter waits on weekdays. The ride lasts about ten minutes.
As a solo traveler, I thought I might have to ride with others, and that was okay. However, I felt delighted when I was allowed to ride in a car alone. I could move from one side of the car to the other and take photos and videos. My inner child laughed with joy.
If you don’t like heights, this ride may not be for you, however I’d encourage you to give The Wheel a try!
There are a couple of other rides at the market. And at the opposite end of Princes Street Gardens, Santa Land for the young and young at heart. More rides and stalls are located there, in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle.
The Wheel at the market.A view from the top of The Wheel. Love the shadow I caught.
Edinburgh Christmas Market 2024
This year the market opens on November 25 and closes January 3. It promises to be another festive time in the grand old city. Edinburgh celebrates the holidays in a BIG way. It’s fun to wander the cobbled streets, looking at the elaborate Christmas decorations and lighted displays.
Have you been to a European Christmas Market? Would you enjoy the one in Edinburgh? Let me know in the comments below.
Me? I’ll go back. I can’t stay away from Edinburgh for long. Next on my wish list for this city is to experience Hogmanay, the Scot’s wild and fun New Year’s Eve celebration.
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This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my Disclosure Policy for details.
My favorite seasons are spring and fall, primarily due to the mild weather experienced then. It’s easy to enjoy outdoor adventures or explore sprawling cities unhampered by temperature extremes.
Of all the seasons, winter is my least favorite for adventures. I love the holidays and I celebrate my birthday in January, however I don’t like the cold. Let me appreciate the beauty of winter indoors, through a window, while sipping a cup of hot tea.
So my strong desire to experience the Edinburgh Christmas Market in December was tempered somewhat by my dislike of the cold. I love to walk a city, explore new to me areas and take lots of photos. Edinburgh, Scotland is far enough north that the winter days are incredibly short, and frosty with rain or snow a definite possibility.
To get all that I wanted from my explorations I needed to adjust my thinking about low temps and prepare for hours spent outdoors. I did both and the visit to Edinburgh in winter was a success! These are my essentials for cold weather adventures.
Essentials for Cold Weather Adventures
I spent a week in Edinburgh in early December. While temperatures there that time of year typically average 45 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and dip to the mid 30s at night, during my visit temperatures stayed below average.
Fortunately, I researched what the weather is like in Edinburgh well before my trip and started watching daily forecasts on the Weather App two weeks out. I saw how cold the week of my visit could be and planned accordingly.
This is exactly what I purchased and packed for my trip, using a carryon only plus a roomy cross body purse. The following items proved essential indeed.
Thermal Underwear by Thermajane
Layering is key to staying warm in cold temps. I purchased a thermal top and thermal leggings to wear beneath jeans and heavy sweaters. Greg loaned me a second set of thermals as well. I alternated the sets of thermal wear, washing the thermals I wasn’t wearing in the sink in my apartment and drying them near the radiator on a chair-turned-drying-rack.
What I love about Thermajane thermals
This set is a nice, heavy weight, lined, stretchy and comfy. Beneath my clothes and outerwear, they kept me toasty warm in temperatures as low as 20 degrees. They also wicked away moisture, which proved valuable when walking actually caused a sweat. And they dried quickly when washed.
Essentials for Cold Weather Adventures – Thermajane thermal top
Socks, Socks and Socks
When my feet are cold, the rest of me is miserable as well. These knitted wool socks by FYC kept my feet comfy and warm. I bought two packages of socks and packed enough for six adventure days. On travel days, I wore compression socks. Packing tip: tightly roll socks and place inside boots or shoes.
What I love about my socks
I’m one of those people who LOVES good socks. I appreciated the warmth of the FYC socks and loved the fun patterns.
On the long flights to Scotland and home again, I wore knee high compression socks, which helped to prevent swelling and restless legs. And I removed my boots and slipped on a pair of these thick cushiony thermal socks, over the compression socks, for warmth and comfort.
Fun patterned knitted wool socks for warm feet.
Heavy Outdoor Campfire Sweater by Magellan
I discovered Magellan’s campfire fleece sweaters before my Washington DC trip. The one I bought was perfect for DC’s cool, rainy weather. The sweaters breathe and wick away moisture, for comfort, and yet trap body heat for warmth. I loved the sweater shirt so much that I bought another one in a different color so that I had two for Edinburgh. I also purchased a thick cowl neck sweater that I wore for afternoon tea.
What I love about campfire fleece sweaters
The Magellan sweaters are trim fit, so not too bulky, AND they have two front pockets, which I appreciate. I took two on the trip and alternated wearing them every other day. On my afternoon tea day, I wore a pretty dark gray cowl neck sweater.
Essentials for Cold Weather Adventures – campfire sweater
Boots by St John’s Bay
With the sweaters, I wore jeans every day. For simplicity, I took two pairs of black jeans on the trip. I also wore a pair of boots and packed a pair, one black and one brown. With the cold, rain and snow, I always had dry boots by switching them out every other day. Because I am vegan, I purchase boots with man made uppers, from JC Penney.
What I love about boots from St John’s Bay
Both pairs of boots worked well and stood up to miles of walking, in all kinds of weather.
Brown pair of boots from St John’s Bay
Heavy Waterproof Coat by Gemyse
I’m not a coat person. Even in cold weather, if I’m mostly riding in a car or moving from car to indoors, I don’t bother with one. So a heavy waterproof coat became a top priority. The coat by Gemyse worked so well!
It’s lined and insulated with multiple pockets, including inner ones, wind guards, a lined hood and adjustable cuffs with stretchable, fingerless gloves with thumb holes. The coat is designed for cold temps and outdoor activities.
What I love about the Gemyse coat
This coat, worn over my warm layers, kept me dry and comfortable and provided lots of pockets. The outer hand pockets are zippered. Plus there’s a zippered pocket on the chest that’s perfect to hold a phone. And the large, mesh inner pocket easily held my portable battery for my iPhone.
I so appreciate this heavy, waterproof coat with many pockets.
Cashmere Tartan Scarf
It’s so cozy, wearing a cashmere scarf around my neck. And a few times, I pulled that scarf up to cover my lower face and nose. Purchase a similar scarf HERE.
What I love about my warm scarf
This scarf, made in Scotland, is my Clan Maitland Tartan. I proudly wore it every day while out exploring.
Essentials for Cold Weather Adventures – tartan scarf
Stocking Cap, Gloves, Snacks
I grouped these together because I have a photo with all three!
Stocking Cap by Couthie Gifts, Scotland
My red stocking cap came from a Wee Box subscription box. I love the pop of red and matched my gloves to it. It’s lined with a faux fur and is sooo warm. Keeping my head warm helped keep the rest of my body comfortable. Get a similar one with this LINK.
What I love about the stocking cap
I never left the apartment without my cap upon my head. I received many compliments on it!
Cable Knit Wool Gloves by ViCherub
My thick, fleece lined gloves kept my hands warm and dry. I matched them to my cap, color wise.
What I love about the gloves
For convenience, I purchased gloves with touch screen finger tips, so I could use my phone and camera while keeping my hands warm.
Munk Pack Snack Bars
Yes, I traveled with Munk Pack snack bars! Why? When it’s cold, the body uses more energy to stay warm. I wanted to keep my body fueled and energized. I slipped a couple of bars into my sling purse every day and when I need refueling, I ate a delicious snack.
What I love about Munk Pack Snack Bars
These yummy bars are low sugar and highly nutritious. Plus they are so easy to pack for adventures. Order on Amazon or pick them up at Walmart.
A trio of essentials – stocking cap, gloves and snack bars
Extra Essentials for Cold Weather Adventures
These additional items contributed to the success of my trip.
Voke Energy Pack
To help combat jet lag, I included Voke Energy Packets. One chewable berry flavored tablet, twice a day, naturally gave me a boost. I don’t have time for jet lag, not when there’s a beautiful city to explore.
What I love about Voke Energy Pack
Each soft packet contains six tablets, making them easy to tuck into my carryon.
Voke Energy Pack to combat jet lag.
Natural Dreams by Univera
Univera provided another way to fight jet lag. I took their sleep supplements the first three nights in Edinburgh. Natural Dreams sleep aid promotes deeper sleep, which allows the body to rest and restore itself. Those nights of deep, restorative sleep enabled me to wake up refreshed and ready to explore.
What I love about Natural Dreams
This product didn’t leave me feeling groggy and the ingredients are all natural.
Natural Dream provides a restorative night’s sleep.
Shampoo & Conditioner Bars from The Earthling Company
I tried shampoo and conditioner bars for the first time this trip…and I love them! They are easy to pack, come in small reusable cardboard boxes so no plastic and they are simple to use. Back home, I’m continuing to use them.
What I love about shampoo & conditioner bars
These bars are plant based, with no parabens, sulfates or silicon. The shampoo bar suds up wonderfully and yet rinses clean. The conditioner bar is easy to use as well. Together they leave my hair clean, soft and less frizzy. Plus I love the coconut vanilla scent.
Essentials for Cold Weather Adventures – shampoo and conditioner bars
BOOM Trio
The BOOM Trio makeup sticks are super easy to pack and to use. I slip the three BOOM sticks into their canvas zippered bag and carry them in my purse.
What I love about BOOM Trio
While I use a variety of products for skin care, my makeup is extremely simple: three sticks for moisturizing, color and a touch of glimmer! I’ve been using BOOM, designed for mature women, for years and continue to appreciate it. The moisturizing Glow stick is also handy to prevent dry, cracked lips due to the cold.
BOOM Trio Makeup sticks.
Sling Purse by Chala
Since I travel solo, I wanted a small purse to carry while out walking in the city. This cute sling purse worked perfectly. It was just big enough to hold a couple of snack bars and my debit card. I chose to carry my iPhone in a coat pocket however it fit in the purse too. Use this link for a similar purse.
What I love about the sling purse
I wore the sling purse UNDER my heavy coat. When I needed a snack bar or my debit card, I’d unzip the top of my coat, reach in and unzip the purse and pull out what I needed. I could explore without concern about a noticeable purse and keep my debit card safe. Packing tip: I placed the empty sling purse in an outside pocket on my carryon.
Loved wearing this sling purse UNDER my coat.
Batt Pack Portable Battery by Octave
I ordered a new iPhone 14 Pro before my trip, however it didn’t arrive until January. To keep my old iPhone charged up and ready for photos, I carried this handy portable battery. While flying it traveled in my purse. While out exploring, it fit perfectly in the mesh inner pocket inside my coat. In my cozy apartment, I plugged in the portable battery every night to recharge. Get a portable battery HERE.
What I love about the portable battery
I quickly discovered that extremely cold temps drained my iPhone battery. It was necessary to connect it to the portable battery about half way through the day. The mesh pocket was big enough to hold the portable battery AND the iPhone connected to it. By the end of a day of exploring in the cold, my phone usually quit working until it warmed back up.
Essentials for Cold Weather Adventures – portable battery
Cold Weather, No Problem
With all my essentials for cold weather adventures, I truly loved my week in Edinburgh. I learned that preparation and proper clothing and outerwear make a HUGE difference. Even with temps in the 20s, rain and snow, I spent hours outdoors every day enjoying fun experiences and discovering new places to explore in a city I dearly love.
I look forward to more cold weather adventures, at home and abroad.
Do you have any cold weather essentials to add to my list? Please share them in the comments below.
And I close with one more item that’s a fun essential.
An online friend created the perfect travel t-shirt for me, with my departing airport, Springfield, on the front along with my destination airport, Edinburgh. I added a long sleeve gray shirt beneath and enjoyed wearing it on my long travel day to Scotland. So many people asked me about it that I want to share it with you. Get your travel tee by visiting my friend’s Etsy shop.
I treasure this shirt! It makes a wonderful memento of my trip.
Cindy Goes Beyond is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. This affiliate program provides a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com, all at no extra cost to you.
This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my Disclosure Policy for details.
My three previous visits to Edinburgh, Scotland all took place during summer or fall months. However, for many years, I’ve dreamed of traveling to Edinburgh in December, to experience the city’s Christmas Market.
COVID closed down the event in 2020 and 2021, postponing my plans. When I learned the city intended to open the Christmas Market in November 2022, I booked my trip…in August.
What an incredible experience, exploring Edinburgh in winter. Not only did I enjoy the Christmas Market, I discovered many other fun things to do during the colder months.
Edinburgh in Winter
Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital city, offers so many exciting experiences year around. During the month of August the city hosts the Fringe Festival, which draws a huge number of tourists from around the world. I’ve experienced Fringe, and everyone who enjoys art and media should. Lasting the whole month, Fringe features more than 60,000 performances of 3800 shows in 320+ venues, including along the Royal Mile.
The other eleven months of the year, the streets are still busy with throngs of people, but less crowded. I found that while the Christmas Market area was packed during the weekend, weekdays were less crowded and the rest of the city very easy to navigate.
Normal temperatures during December average 45 degrees Fahrenheit by day and drop to mid 30s at night. I began watching the weather in Edinburgh two weeks before my trip, using the Weather App. Rain is a daily occurrence in Scotland throughout the year. So snow was a possibility in December. And, watching the predicted weather pattern I saw that temps were expected to be lower than normal, in the 20s and 30s. This knowledge helped me to prepare for outdoor adventures in cold weather. Watch for an upcoming post about what I purchased, for adventuring in the cold.
I planned out what activities I wanted to do during my week in Edinburgh, leaving some free time for spontaneous adventures. Here’s where my explorations took me.
Exploring Edinburgh in Winter – The Wheel at the Christmas Market. I rode it and loved the views from the top.
The Christmas Market
This event is what drew me to Edinburgh in winter and I was not disappointed! The Christmas Market opened November 25 and closed January 3. Stretching along Princes Street, in New Town, the market includes stalls with vendors selling crafts, gifts, Christmas items and clothing. Everything imaginable, really, is available there. There are also lots of stalls selling all kinds of food including German food, fair food, nachos, crepes, burgers, fish and chips, Scottish food and even vegan fare plus drinks such as beer, wine, hot tea and hot chocolate, soda and water.
The Wheel offers riders the chance to see Edinburgh from above while a few other rides appeal to people of all ages. Music plays throughout the market, from fiddles to bag pipes, lights decorate stalls and trees and there is a festive atmosphere that permeates the area along with the tantalizing aroma of food.
The Christmas Market is free while The Wheel and other rides have a small fee. Restrooms are available on site. As noted, the market was extremely busy Friday night through Sunday evening. I visited during weekdays and only walked by over the weekend. My last day in Edinburgh, which also happened to be the coldest, I enjoyed vegan nachos with haggis for lunch and a hot chocolate.
Stalls with goods and food for sale, at the Christmas Market. This is a small section of the market. It covered a large area.
Santa Land
At the other end of Princes Street, down in the gardens, is Santa Land. This event is geared toward younger children. A variety of rides, fun booths and food stalls invite families to stay and play. The event is free to walk through with the rides requiring a ticket.
I enjoyed walking through the area and capturing photos of Santa Land with Edinburgh Castle perched high above. The Ross Fountain is in that area as well and worth taking a photo of.
Exploring Edinburgh in Winter – Santa Land
Christmas Decor
Edinburgh certainly decorates for the holidays! I enjoyed walking around, camera ready on my iPhone, looking at the decorated store fronts, restaurants and townhouses. New Town seems to decorate more than Old Town, however it’s worth walking the streets in both areas. Lights strung across the cobblestone streets lend holiday cheer and some of the storefronts are astounding!
Walk around St Andrew Square and along George Street, both in New Town, for some of the best Christmas decor.
This storefront was one of my favorites!
Christmas at the Botanics
The Edinburgh Botanic Garden hosts a lighted trail walk every year during the holidays. I visited the garden for the first time on my last visit, in July 2019. What a magical experience to visit again for a nighttime walk through enchanting gardenscapes.
While the botanic garden is free during the rest of the year, there is a fee for the Christmas tour. It is worth the price! There are timed entries, every half hour. Once in the garden, you can stay as long as you like. It took me about an hour to slowly wander the trail.
The themed displays all feature light and music. You can’t get lost. The trail is well marked and personnel are posted throughout the garden. Restrooms are available, in the heated main building, and there are stalls in several places selling food and hot drinks.
Beautiful lighted display on water at the Edinburgh Botanic Garden.
Ice Skating Rink
The ice skating rink opens when the Christmas Market does and closes on the same date. This year the rink set up at the end of George Street, in an enclosed rectangular structure. There is a fee to rent the skates and enter the rink however there is space at one end with tables and chairs for spectators. Food and drink stalls are in this area as well.
I have never ice skated and didn’t attempt it…this time! Rather I enjoyed watching the skaters glide by. A large carousel is available outside, for those who would rather ride in circles instead of skate.
Exploring Edinburgh in Winter – ice skating
St Andrew Square
At the other end of George Street is St Andrew Square. It’s decorated with lights and trees. And this green space partnered this year with Social Bite’s Festival of Kindness, spreading goodwill and helping others.
People could donate meals, gifts and accommodations for those in need. Social Bite, with the help of Essential Edinburgh, set a goal of providing 250,000 meals and essential items during the winter months, for the city’s most vulnerable, the homeless. The charity installed huge lighted Christmas Trees in the square and asked people to purchase one extra gift during the holidays, to donate to those in need. St Andrew Square served as the collection site for those gifts.
I was very impressed and moved by the work of Social Bite. Hopefully this is an event that continues year after year.
St Andrew Square focuses on helping others.
Exploring Edinburgh in Winter
Exploring the city is a fun activity on any visit to Edinburgh. Add in frosty temps and a dusting of snow and familiar landmarks and locations take on a fairytale quality.
While exploring Edinburgh, I visited two new to me areas, The Vennel in the Grassmarket area and Circus Lane, in Stockbridge. I also revisited one of my favorite Edinburgh gems, Dean Village, and explored many of the closes off of the Royal Mile.
The Vennel
This scenic location, with an excellent view of the castle, requires a bit of hunting to locate. An old, steep stone staircase, separating two buildings in Grassmarket, leads to a platform where you can turn and see the castle in all its glory.
While this spot isn’t well known, more and more people are finding it, thanks to photos on social media. When I climbed the stairs, coated with a thin layer of ice and snow, a handful of people stood on the platform. We all took turns capturing the shot of the castle. I needed to catch my breath anyway, after all those stairs!
The Vennel offers a spectacular view of the castle.
Circus Lane
I saw photos of this pretty lane on social media as well, which is what inspired me to walk there to see it myself.
Circus Lane in the Stockbridge area is a favorite for photographers, with its narrow curved street and cute mews houses. It’s not far from Dean Village and only required a 10 minute walk from my accommodations on Rose Street.
Circus Lane is, indeed, extremely picturesque, even in winter. I loved walking along the lane and taking photos. And afterward, I ate lunch at an amazing vegan restaurant in the area. Check out vegan eats in Edinburgh HERE.
Circus Lane is a wonderful street to take photos on.
Dean Village in Winter
This hidden gem in Edinburgh is one of my favorite locations in the city. If I could live in Edinburgh, I’d want to have a flat in Dean Village. Tucked in a valley, and lying along the Water of Leith, this area once housed mills and the people who worked in them. Today it is a quaint village that still retains the charm of the past.
I walked to Dean Village on the coldest day during my visit. Temperatures never rose above the low 20s. And when I first descended into the valley, fog hung over the water. It looked so magical though, with the wispy fog and the snow. I enjoyed walking around the village and standing on the bridges. And I gratefully bought a large hot chocolate from a vendor with a small cart.
Beautiful Dean Village in winter.
Royal Mile Closes
Closes are narrow alleys that connect the Royal Mile with other streets and areas in Edinburgh. Originally there were about 250 closes. As medieval Edinburgh grew, tall tenements sprang up along the closes. Some of these lanes were eventually filled in, or sealed off, as is the case with the most famous one, Mary King’s Close.
It’s fun to wander down these closes and see where they lead. I had time to explore many of them, seeing new sights. And I took the Mary King’s Close tour for the first time, an experience one pays for. I discovered the Writer’s Museum, in the Lady Stairs Close. And found the Bakehouse Close, where they filmed scenes for the Scottish series Outlander.
On a couple of different days, in all kinds of weather, I wandered the length of the Royal Mile, exploring the closes and stepping back in time, it often seemed.
A gorgeous view through Advocate’s Close.
Walking and Taking Photos
My favorite activity, exploring Edinburgh in winter, was simply walking the city, Old Town and New Town, and taking photos. I’ll never tire of this city. Every visit I see something new and discover different areas to explore.
In Scotland, the days are very short in December. The sun rose about 8:40 am and by 3:40 pm, it set. The golden hour, the best time for taking photos, occurred between 2:30 and 3:30 each day! That meant I got up early and headed out so I could see as much as possible in daylight.
It’s magical to walk at night in Edinburgh as well, although being a solo traveler, I never stayed out too late. I loved seeing familiar streets dressed for the holidays and watching the lights come on, late afternoon.
Cockburn Street in Old Town.
Have You Visited Edinburgh?
What an incredible trip, exploring Edinburgh in winter. This first international solo trip taught me things about myself. (I can handle navigating HUGE airports and make it to my gate on time.) And I learned more about this marvelous city. I feel a deep connection to Edinburgh and it will continue to haunt me and draw me back.
I can check Edinburgh Christmas Market off my bucket list. I think I’ll add Edinburgh Hogmanay though! I’d love to experience the city’s new year celebration.
Have you visited Edinburgh? Or have you experienced a European Christmas market?
Scottish Finds on Amazon:
Cindy Goes Beyond is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. This affiliate program provides a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com, all at no extra cost to you.
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When I’m planning a trip, the first thing I focus on, even before checking flights, is accommodations. Where I stay is important, especially since I’m on foot during most of my stay.
My ideal accommodation is located near the area I most want to explore, has a kitchen or mini kitchen and is unique.
As I searched in Old and New Towns, in Edinburgh, I browsed through many hotels. I found several that met my criteria, however the price per night was high for all of them. I hoped to spend 5 – 7 days in Edinburgh so I kept searching.
I’m not sure how I ended up on the CoDE Boutique Hostel sites. I apparently clicked a link or a photo and rather than click away, I kept scrolling through their info. CoDE features sleek, comfy pods in dormitory style rooms, similar to Japanese hostels. Intrigued, I considered booking a pod in a female only room.
And then it happened. CoDE operates two hostels in Edinburgh, one off of the Royal Mile and the other on Rose Street. Rose Street felt perfect, location wise. As I looked at the dormitory rooms I discovered that the Rose Street location offered a top floor “penthouse” with a full kitchen, private bathroom, incredible floor to ceiling windows AND a balcony.
My heart beat faster, a sure sign that I’d found my accommodations. And, the price was incredible. I could stay a full week at CoDE for less than the cost of 3 nights at the hotels I’d been perusing. My trip to Edinburgh came together quickly after that remarkable find.
CoDE Boutique Hostel
With their private pods, ear plugs and sleeping masks, this luxury hostel offers a great night’s sleep with an emphasis on privacy and security.
They provide cozy common rooms to encourage social interaction among the guests and the CoDE Court Hostel off of the Royal Mile offers waffles for breakfast every morning. Amenities include free wi-fi, storage lockers, toiletries and a place to stash luggage if you arrive before check in time.
The Court in Old Town is so named because the building formerly served as a courthouse and jail. The cells are now individual rooms and the courtroom a sleeping studio with pods.
The pod beds feel private with curtains that close at the foot of the pod. The pods contain a shelf, LED lighting, hooks and USB ports. Each pod has a corresponding locker with a digital lock that securely holds luggage and personal items. Female only and coed dorms are available.
The CoDE name comes from the fact that each guest receives his or her own unique personal code for access to the building and dorm room or apartment.
CoDE Boutique Hostel Loft
The hostel I chose, located at 50 Rose Street North Lane, provides long term living options in a beautiful old building in the heart of New Town. This hostel offers discounts for stays from a week to several months, making it ideal for my trip.
There’s also a family room at this site, with a double pod and two single pods, perfect for parents with kids who want to share the same space. Each of the floors contain two pod rooms with shared bathrooms. The penthouse, a cozy and cute studio style apartment, sits at the top of the building. My guess is that this is a recent add on.
On the ground floor is a full kitchen for guests to prepare meals and a common room for social interaction, watching tv or working on laptops.
The spotless apartment contains a spacious bathroom with walk in shower, a kitchen with mini fridge, full size electric range, microwave, plates, glasses, mugs and silverware and cooking essentials, dining area/workspace and a double bed. The large windows look out over charming buildings in the area and at the end of the apartment, a sliding glass door opens onto a large private balcony.
Take a tour of the penthouse apartment with me as I point out some of the amazing features!
The exterior of the CoDE Boutique Hostel.
Common Room and Shared Kitchen
Using the personalized code, I entered a hallway that leads to storage lockers and stairs going up to four floors of rooms. There isn’t an elevator.
Immediately inside the entrance and to the right is the common room with a shared kitchen, tables, sofas and a television mounted on the wall. I don’t believe the pod rooms contain a tv although the apartment does.
The kitchen is stocked with cooking essentials and free coffees and teas.
There isn’t a check in desk. Arrangements are made online and my card was charged right before I arrived. There are helpful staff onsite. The young man working the day I arrived graciously carried my luggage to the top floor!
I met several of the other guests although I never used the shared kitchen or hung out in the common room. Everyone seemed kind and thoughtful.
CoDE Boutique Hostel common room and kitchen
CoDE Boutique Hostel Apartment Hallway
The industrial style door opens onto a hallway with storage, hangers and cubbies for clothing. At the end of the hallway is the bathroom. The living area/bedroom opens off of the hallway as well.
A perfectly placed full length mirror made the clothing storage area a wonderful spot to get dressed and don coat, hat, gloves and scarf before heading out to explore. I really appreciated this handy area.
Hallway with clothing storage area.Bathroom at the end of the hallway.
CoDE Boutique Hostel Apartment Bathroom
I loved the large bathroom! Subway tiles, an awesome shower, dual mirrors, the ledge near the sink for toiletries and the cheerful orange rug all enchanted me. Plus, it absolutely gleamed!
CoDE provides two hand towels and two bath towels, shower gel and a hair dryer, which meant I didn’t have to pack one or use electrical adapters.
A small wall radiator kept the bathroom cozy. Also, blue mood lighting installed along the baseboards served well as a nightlight.
CoDE Boutique Hostel bathroomAwesome shower
CoDE Boutique Hostel Apartment Sleeping Area
A double bed, two bedside tables and lamps and a wall mounted television occupy one end of the studio style apartment. The thick, comfy mattress provided the BEST night’s sleep after a day of exploring.
Above the bed, the words “Wake up and be awesome” inspired me every morning.
Charging ports built into the walls made it easy to plug my phone in for charging and again, I didn’t have to use the electrical adapters that I brought.
The two exterior walls contained large windows and a sliding glass door opening onto the balcony. I loved the light and the views.
Wake up and be awesome!What amazing views!
CoDE Boutique Hostel Apartment Kitchen and Dining Area
At the other end of the apartment an island with four stools provided dining and work space near the windows.
And the kitchen offered a full sized stove/oven, a microwave, mini fridge, toaster and my favorite, an instant water kettle for making hot tea. The kitchen contained everything I needed to create meals. Because I’m plant based, it’s easier for me to make my own breakfasts and dinners and eat lunches out at various vegan restaurants. Cooking saves me money and I know I’m eating healthy. A corner grocery store a few blocks away made shopping convenient.
CoDE Boutique Hostel kitchenDining/workspace area with a peek at the private balcony beyond.
My Experience in the CoDE Boutique Hostel
I immediately fell in love with this apartment!
Yes, at least twice a day I climbed four floors to reach my apartment. By the third day, I made that climb easily without feeling out of breath. And oh, that climb was worth it!
I raised the shades first thing every morning, ate my oatmeal and berries sitting in front of those windows, watched the sun rise, the snow swirl, the clouds gather, darkness fall. The views from that top floor apartment melted my heart.
In fact, my first evening in the apartment, after exploring for a few hours, I stood at those windows and said aloud, “I’m in Edinburgh!” And I promptly burst into tears. It was such an emotional experience.
I loved everything about the apartment: location, beauty, kitchen, balcony, dressing area, bed. By nature I’m a tidy person, so I kept the apartment clean… picked up, bed made, dishes washed, clothes put away tidy.
One thing the apartment does not have is an indoor chair. There are the stools at the island and the bed but no chair. So I brought in one of the eight outdoor chairs on the balcony and set it up in front of the window. It became “my place” to greet the day, eat meals, plan for the next day and meditate.
And on the day of heavy rain and snow, that comfy chair served as a drying rack near the radiator for my coat, hat, gloves and scarf!
A snowy day in Edinburgh.
Who Might Not Like This Luxury Hostel
CoDE Boutique Hostel perfectly fit my needs and exceeded my expectations.
I’m aware, however, that not everyone would appreciate this type of accommodation.
Why you might not like this hostel:
you can’t climb stairs
there’s zero parking for a rental car…the location is ideal however for walking
while staff are onsite, there’s no check in/check out desk
instead of a room key, you receive a unique to you code to punch in on a keypad
there’s no daily room cleaning service in the apartment…it’s cleaned between guests
pod rooms share bathrooms
Rose Street is a busy pedestrian street, which means you might hear some noise late at night as people walk down the street (this didn’t bother me or keep me awake)
guests come and go at all hours of the day and night (again, this didn’t bother me or keep me awake, since I was at the top of the building)
there’s no gym, pool, business center or complimentary breakfast at the Rose Street site
My apartment was the Edinburgh Suite. I loved that.
Would I Stay at CoDE Boutique Hostel Again?
So…would I stay here again?
Yes! I absolutely would. The apartment became my home base as I explored Edinburgh. Its convenient location made it easy to stop by after lunch to drop off any purchases and refresh before heading back out.
The staff answered all my questions and when the heat didn’t kick on the first night, a quick email resulted in an even quicker fix. They were able to turn on the radiator remotely.
I so enjoyed my stay at CoDE that I felt genuinely sad when I left for the last time, to catch a flight home. For a glorious week, that little apartment WAS home and it served me well.
I can’t really say I experienced a traditional hostel stay, since I had my own private space, but I loved this new to me type of accommodation, nonetheless. My stay at CoDE contributed to my Edinburgh trip in very positive ways. I’d definitely stay here again or even consider a stay in the females only pod room.
Would you stay at CoDE Boutique Hostel? Why or why not?
Enjoying a light snowfall on the balcony at CoDE Boutique Hostel.
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I first toured Edinburgh Castle in 2014, with my cousins Mindy and William. On that dreich day in August, we stood huddled around our tour guide Jonathan as he spoke passionately about Scotland’s Stone of Destiny, housed nearby in a room of the castle.
With his long red hair blowing in the wind and fire in his fierce blue eyes, Jonathan epitomized the proud Scots warrior, ready to defend his beloved country. I shivered as he spoke in his heavy Scottish brogue and it had nothing to do with the cold. He shared how the stone left Scotland for a time…a very long time…and eventually returned home where, he declared vehemently, it will remain.
And he intrigued me with a tale of the infamous theft of the Stone of Destiny.
When my cousins opted to leave the castle complex to attend a whiskey tasting, I chose to stay behind and see this Stone of Destiny that stirred such passion in our guide.
The Stone of Destiny Backstory
The Stone of Destiny, also known as the Stone of Scone and in England, the Coronation Stone, is an oblong block of red sandstone. This rather ordinary looking block of stone served for centuries as the coronation stone for the monarchs of Scotland.
The Scone Abbey near Perth, Scotland originally housed the artifact. Historian Walter Hemingford described the stone as “hollowed out as a chair on which future kings were placed for their coronation, according to custom.”
The stone measures 26 inches by 16.7 inches by 10.5 inches. A roughly etched cross decorates one surface while embedded iron rings aid with transport. It weighs 335 pounds.
In 1296 the English king Edward I took the stone as spoils of war and moved it to Westminster Abbey. A special wooden coronation chair became the stone’s resting place. Edward sought to claim status as the “Lord Paramount” of Scotland with the right to oversee its king.
All subsequent English monarchs sat in the chair, above the stone, when crowned. Queen Elizabeth II last used the coronation chair in 1953.
The Infamous Theft of the Stone of Destiny – illustration of the Coronation Chair with the Stone
A Daring Rescue Plan
In 1950, more than 650 years after the stone left Scotland, a group of Scottish college students concocted a bold plan…steal the Stone of Destiny and bring it home.
A law student at the University of Glasgow, Ian Hamilton joined with Alan Stuart, Kay Matheson and Gavin Vernon to break into Westminster Abbey and recover the stone.
Ian read everything he could find about the Abbey and scouted out the building several times. On one visit, he deliberately stayed past closing time, hiding near the Coronation Chair. A janitor discovered him and thinking the young man drunk, offered him a coin and let him out a side door.
During these surveillance trips, Ian found the side doors made of pine, making them easy to break into after hours.
On Christmas Eve, 1950, Ian and his companions drove to London in two separate cars. Arriving early on Christmas Day, the group parked near the Abbey. Kay remained in a running car, ready for a quick get away, while the boys stealthily entered the Abbey. That’s when the plan began to fall apart.
The Infamous Theft of the Stone of Destiny – top view
Stealing the Stone of Destiny
The heavy stone rested in a chair made specifically for it. The young men found it difficult to remove the stone and ultimately broke part of the chair. Tugging the stone free at last, it fell to the floor, breaking toes on one of the men’s foot. More alarming to them, the stone broke in two.
Ian quickly grabbed the smaller piece and carried it to the car where Kay waited. He stashed the stone segment in the back seat. As he re-entered the Abbey, he heard a police officer approaching. Dashing back to Kay, Ian took her into his arms and kissed her. Questioned by the policeman, the pair claimed to be a couple searching for accommodations for the night.
Once the officer left, Kay drove off with the smaller stone segment hidden beneath a blanket. When Ian returned to the Abbey, he discovered the other men had fled. With great determination and ingenuity, the lad used his coat to laboriously drag the heavier stone segment out of the building.
As he heaved the stone into the trunk of the second car, his comrades returned. They all left together.
The theft discovered, roadblocks sprang up on all streets out of London. Kay did not draw suspicion, as a single girl driving a car. She made it through and crossed the border, taking her part of the stone to her family’s farm in Scotland.
The young men chose to hide the larger segment in England, fearing they could not make it across the closed border. They buried the stone in an empty field in Kent. Eventually they returned for the stone and successfully transported it to Scotland.
The Infamous Theft of the Stone of Destiny – side view
Back to England
With the help of the Scottish National Party leader, the courageous college students had the stone repaired by a stone master. The theft made international headlines and brought a united sense of joy to the Scottish people.
As the investigation into the theft of the Destiny Stone came closer and closer to the perpetrators, the four decided that they had accomplished their purpose. By stealing the Stone of Destiny and bringing it home they raised awareness of Scotland’s subordination to England.
The four contacted two Arbroath town councilors and turned over the stone.
On April 11, 1951, the councilors helped the college students set up the stone on an altar in the abandoned Arbroath Abbey and called the authorities. The English got the stone back and returned it to the Coronation Chair. The students disbanded and never met again. Ian completed his studies and became a criminal lawyer.
The way was paved, however, for the stone to return to its rightful place in Scotland. In 1996 the English handed over the Stone of Destiny, on the condition that they may “borrow” it for any future coronations.
The Infamous Theft of the Stone of Destiny – statue of Robert the Bruce
Viewing the Stone of Destiny
Twice I’ve viewed the Stone of Destiny in Edinburgh Castle. Both times I felt deeply moved.
The stone rests within a plexiglass case along with the Crown Jewels of Scotland. I can’t touch it yet I feel the hum of sacred energy that flows from it. My Scottish DNA responds, causing my eyes to fill with tears and my heart to beat faster. Photographs are not allowed so I spent several long minutes studying the stone, searing its image into my mind and soul.
What an amazing history this stone possesses. I love the courage and resourcefulness of the four young adults who accomplished what no one else dared. They took back what was rightfully theirs. That feat ultimately resulted in a permanent return of the stone and the Scottish are extremely protective of it now.
As an older adult, Ian said:
“When I lifted the stone in Westminster Abbey, I felt Scotland’s soul was in my hands.”
What a marvelous representation of Scotland’s hardy, warrior soul is the Stone of Destiny. Long may it remain in Edinburgh.
Group photo at Edinburgh Castle, September 2017
Want to watch a fun depiction of this true story? Check out the Stone of Destiny film, available through Amazon Prime. Click on photo to rent.
Or purchase the book by clicking on the photo below.
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There’s a fun, popular pub on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh. Called Deacon Brodie’s Tavern, the pub serves up classic Scottish and British fare, an assortment of cask ales and a rich history. The tavern bears the name of one of Edinburgh’s most fascinating residents, William Brodie. A respectable cabinet maker by day, Brodie led a sordid secret life by night.
In fact, he’s commonly referred to as Deacon Brodie Edinburgh’s real life Jekyll and Hyde.
Read his stranger than fiction story!
Who is Deacon Brodie?
Born in Edinburgh on September 28, 1741, William Brodie was the son of a successful cabinetmaker and the grandson of two renowned lawyers.
William grew up in the trade, becoming a fine craftsman specializing in domestic furniture such as cabinets and cupboards. Additionally, he was a skilled locksmith.
Because of his talents and his family connections, Brodie served as a representative, or deacon, of the guild and a city councillor. This position of influence brought him respect throughout the city…and a great deal of business.
Brodie socialized with the gentry of Edinburgh. He met poet Robert Burns and painter Henry Raeburn and enjoyed a membership at Edinburgh Cape Club.
When his father died in 1768, young Brodie inherited 10,000 pounds, a fortune in those days, along with four houses and the family cabinetmaking business.
Deacon Brodie Edinburgh’s Real Life Jekyll and Hyde – one of two tavern signs
A Dark Secret
While Deacon Brodie garnered respect during the day, at night he shifted into a darker life of crime.
Because of his work he gained access to the homes of Edinburgh’s wealthy citizens. Making wax impressions of the household keys allowed him to fashion duplicates, which meant he could return at night or while the owners were away, and commit robbery.
For more than a decade he led a double life, craftsman by day and thief at night. However after his father’s death, he took his criminal activities up a notch.
In spite of his inheritance, Brodie required more and more money to fund his gambling habits and expensive lifestyle. He also supported two mistresses and five children that he kept hidden from society. As he continued to run up debts at night, his respectable daytime business failed to keep up.
Deacon Brodie teamed up with three other criminals. Together they preyed on businesses and large private homes in Old Town. Growing bolder, they eventually attempted to steal the revenues of Scotland, at the Excise Office in Chessel’s Court.
The botched robbery resulted in only 16 pounds and the gang disbanded. One of the members turned in two of the others for a reward, while Brodie fled the country. Authorities found him hiding in a cupboard in Holland. He returned to Edinburgh to stand trial.
Deacon Brodie Edinburgh’s Real Life Jekyll and Hyde – alter ego
The Trial
Deacon Brodie stood trial for theft, along with one of his accomplices. The trial lasted 21 hours.
Found guilty, he was hung on October 1, 1788, in Lawnmarket, just steps from his birthplace and childhood home. A sizable crowd of 40,000 gathered for the hanging.
Deacon Brodie appeared for his execution in high style, sporting fine, tailored clothes and a powdered wig. One tale suggests Brodie also wore a silver tube around his neck, beneath his finery, in an attempt to survive the hanging. He supposedly bribed the hangman to ignore the tube and arranged for others to quickly remove his body and revive him.
The plan failed. Brodie’s body rests in an unmarked grave at St. Cuthbert’s Chapel. He was 47 years old at the time of his death.
Deacon Brodie Edinburgh’s Real Life Jekyll and Hyde – painting
The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde
Author Robert Louis Stevenson, whose father owned furniture made by Deacon Brodie, wrote a play called Deacon Brodie, The Double Life. Although the play was unsuccessful, Stevenson remained intrigued by Brodie’s double life. This paradox between the cabinetmaker’s light and dark personalities inspired him to write the novel, The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, in 1886.
This tale became a classic, adapted throughout the years into films, musicals and plays.
In Edinburgh Deacon Brodie is remembered with the pub on the corner of Lawnmarket and Bank Street, and a close (covered alleyway) off of the Royal Mile called Brodie’s Close. The family’s residence and workshops were there.
Visit Deacon Brodie’s Tavern for a hearty, traditional meal and fascinating bits of Edinburgh’s darker history. The girls’ group I traveled with enjoyed a fun, leisurely dinner there and a couple of rounds of ale and cider.
The pub also serves breakfast and a delightful afternoon tea.
Have you heard of Deacon Brodie Edinburgh’s real life Jekyll and Hyde?
Drinks and a meal at Deacon Brodie’s Tavern.
Deacon Brodie finds from Amazon:
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When I visited Edinburgh, Scotland in 2017, along with my mother, sisters and niece, one site we all wanted to visit was Greyfriars Kirkyard and a nearby monument.
The monument honors a small Skye Terrier, Greyfriars Bobby. This little dog displayed an incredible level of faithfulness to his owner, earning him the title “World’s Most Loyal Dog”.
Learn his story, in this Tales from Scotland post, and discover visit-worthy sites in the area.
Greyfriars Kirk
Located in Edinburgh’s Old Town, Greyfriars Kirk is a parish kirk (church). It stands on the site of a pre-reformation establishment of the Franciscan Order, the Grey Friars.
Built in 1612, the kirk is located south of Grassmarket and east of George Heriot’s School.
Greyfriars Bobby, world’s most loyal dog – Greyfriars Kirk
Greyfriars Kirkyard
The kirkyard is the cemetery surrounding the church. A number of notable Edinburgh residents rest there.
The kirkyard is moody, in a gothic sort of way, and fascinating to wander through. Elaborate mural monuments along the east and west walls of the oldest burial section feature intriguing symbols of mortality and immortality.
Many graves are protected with stone walls, iron railings or ironwork cages called mortsafes, to protect against grave robbing. In the early 19th century, resurrection men supplied Edinburgh Medical College with corpses for dissection, in exchange for fees. The common practice of plundering graveyards provided those bodies.
And, J.K. Rowling, author of the Harry Potter books, drew inspiration from the kirkyard for character names in her stories. You can find burial sites for people with the names McGonagall, Moodie, Scrymgeour and Potter. Check out the grave of Thomas Riddell, whose name inspired one of the most terrifying villains in literature. In the Harry Potter series, Tom Riddle becomes Lord Voldemort.
Near the entrance to the kirkyard is a gravestone for John Gray, an Edinburgh City nightwatchman. And not far from that grave is another, marked with a similar headstone, for the dog known as Greyfriars Bobby.
Greyfriars Bobby World’s Most Loyal Dog – John Gray’s grave
Greyfriars Bobby
Although slightly different versions of Greyfriars Bobby exists, the most commonly told tale is the following.
Bobby belonged to John Gray, the nightwatchman. For two years they went everywhere together. When John died of tuberculosis 15 February 1858, burial took place in Greyfriars Kirkyard. The dog earned the nickname Greyfriars Bobby because from that time forward, until his own death in 1872, the faithful companion stayed near John’s grave. In spite of various weather conditions and frequent shooing away by the kirkyard caretaker, Bobby refused to leave.
Residents of Edinburgh felt compassion for the dog. They adopted Bobby, feeding him and caring for him. Each afternoon, at the firing of the 1:00 gun at Edinburgh Castle, Bobby trotted to a nearby cafe for a meal and then returned to the kirkyard. Although not officially allowed, kind people even built a small shelter for him near John’s grave.
Sir William Chambers, Lord Provost of Edinburgh and director of the Scottish Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, paid for Bobby’s license and provided a collar for him. That collar is on display in the Museum of Edinburgh.
Bobby remained vigilant near John’s grave for 14 years. After his death, the city buried him in the kirkyard, near his owner. The stone is red marble, like John’s. Inscribed are the words: “Greyfriars Bobby – Died 14 January 1872 – Aged 16 Years. Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all.”
Visitors leave sticks, for Bobby to fetch, on his grave and John’s. Occasionally dog toys and flowers adorn the graves as well.
The grave of Greyfriars Bobby World’s Most Loyal Dog
The Greyfriars Bobby Monument
A year after Bobby’s death, the Baroness Burdett-Coutts, moved by the story, paid for a memorial monument. William Brodie created it as a drinking fountain with an upper basin for humans and a lower one for dogs. A statue of Bobby adorned the top.
The city filled in the basins with concrete in 1957, due to a city-wide health scare. After damage by a car in 1985, the base is newly created, however it copies the original exactly. An attached plaque reads:
“A tribute to the affectionate fidelity of Greyfriars Bobby. In 1858, this faithful dog followed the remains of his master to Greyfriars Churchyard and lingered near the spot until his death in 1872. With permission erected by the Baroness Burdett-Coutts.”
Greyfriars Bobby Monument
Inscribed on the statue is “Greyfriars Bobby, from the life just before his death.” W.H. Brodie Sc RSA 1872
Greyfriars Bobby is a popular destination spot in Edinburgh. People gather around the monument, taking photos. And as attested by the shiny spot on the statue, they reach up to rub Bobby’s nose for good luck. Such superstitions necessitated two nose restorations for Bobby!
The Greyfriars Bobby monument stands near the entrance to the kirkyard. The pub behind it, affectionately known as Bobby’s Bar, is a popular tourist spot. You can find postcards, toys and works of art commemorating Bobby throughout Edinburgh. Additionally, Walt Disney created a film about him in 1961.
Greyfriars Pub – also known as Bobby’s Bar
Other Sites to Visit Near Greyfriars Bobby
These nearby sites are all within walking distance from the monument:
Greyfriars Kirkyard
George Heriot’s School, the inspiration for Hogwarts in Harry Potter
Grassmarket, pubs and shops, and a rich history. This STORY took place near here.
Victoria Street, full of shops and cafes
The Elephant House, cafe/pub where J.K. Rowling wrote the first chapters of Harry Potter
National Museum of Scotland
The Royal Mile, containing many shops, attractions, cafes and museums
Edinburgh Castle, at the top of the Royal Mile
I hope you’ve enjoyed Bobby’s story. His loyalty and devotion tugs at the heart. If you see Bobby, the entrance to the kirkyard with his grave and John’s is right there to the left. It’s free to wander about the cemetery and well worth a visit.
Have you seen Greyfriars Bobby World’s Most Loyal Dog or the kirk and kirkyard? Share your experiences in the comments!
Standing in the Greyfriars kirkyard
Greyfriars Bobby Inspired Treasures:
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Today’s travel story comes from Scotland. I intended to craft a tale from another country, such as Italy, since I posted the Scottish story The Pole Dancer last week. However, this story is the one that surfaced again and again. Perhaps it’s because yesterday was my sister’s birthday, and she features in this account.
This is Wrong Way Sister. And yes, I have my sister’s permission to share these snippets from our trip.
Sisters’ Trip to Scotland
Last July, my sister Debbie and I experienced a series of firsts together. We grew up in the same household and see each other often as adults. And we enjoyed a girls’ trip to the UK in 2017, traveling with our mother, our other sister and Debbie’s daughter through Ireland, Scotland and England.
We’ve shared many adventures and yet we’ve never traveled together, just the two of us. For this trip, we flew back to Scotland to take part in a clan gathering. Debbie and I are members of the Maitland Clan. The gathering gave us the perfect excuse to return to a country we both love and to meet with other clan members from around the world. Check out this post for more about that amazing time with our clan chief and family that we met for the first time.
Knowing how full the clan gathering schedule was, we tacked extra days onto our trip, so we could explore Scotland’s capital city of Edinburgh. Debbie and I share many common interests, including a powerful love for this extraordinary city. Before the clan gathering began, we spent our days happily wandering the city, riding the hop on/hop off buses, and popping into quaint shops and cafes.
Wrong way sister – the adventure begins
Wrong Way, Sister
Sharing a cute little self serviced apartment, cooking our own plant based meals, sleeping in the single bedroom and big comfy bed, my sister and I bonded. People mistake us for twins, because we both choose to embrace our silver hair and wear it long. We often think the same way about situations or say the same words out loud. I woke up one night and discovered we slept in identical positions, a phenomenon we jokingly called synchronized sleeping!
During shared meals and tea times, late night chats and explorations in Edinburgh, we learned new things about each other. One trait I discovered is that my sister does not have a good sense of direction!
Our apartment on Thistle Street became home for ten days. Every morning we exited the building, off on adventures. Charming Thistle Street is populated with pubs, cafes and blocks of apartment buildings. It’s conveniently located a block from Hanover Street, which leads to Princes Street and the bridges that connect New Town with Old Town. Perhaps because of my many years as a realtor, I’ve learned to navigate by directions rather than landmarks or using “right” or “left”. I could mentally call up Edinburgh’s grid of streets in my head as we explored.
Debbie, on the other hand, generally headed in the opposite direction from our intended destination. It became humorous, watching her stride with great purpose…in the wrong direction! On one occasion, I stood at our apartment building door, watching with amusement as she walked down the block to Hanover Street and prepared to cross. Not sensing me behind her, she turned to see where I was.
“It’s this way, right?” she asked. On this day, our destination was Charlotte Square. “No,” I called out, laughing and pointing down Thistle Street. “Exactly the opposite direction.”
Wrong way sister – Thistle Street ApartmentWrong way sister – Hanover Street
The World’s End
On another day, the hottest ever recorded in Scotland, Debbie and I decided to walk to a section of Edinburgh’s original wall.
In Old Town, on what’s known as The Royal Mile, there’s a pub called The End of the World. It marks the outer edge of Old Edinburgh. The exterior wall of this 16th century building formed part of the Flodden Wall that surrounded Old Edinburgh as a defense against intruders.
For the residents of the city at that time, the wall truly was the edge of their known world. People lived and worked and died within that protective barrier. To go beyond it meant entering a dangerous unknown.
After mentally determining the location of the remaining section of the wall, we set off. Debbie and I walked…and walked…and walked. In the record breaking heat, we quickly became hot, draining our water bottles and rolling up our sleeves.
At last we spied our destination ahead. With a sigh of relief, we remarked that the wall section was much farther from The Royal Mile than we anticipated. I was thinking of the long return trek back to our apartment when Debbie voiced the same concern. Our conversation went like this:
Me: “This was a lot farther out than I realized!”
Debbie: “It was! I’m tired and thirsty. At least we are walking toward our apartment, right?”
Me: ….
Debbie: “Right?!”
Me: Laughing. “No. No, our apartment is in the opposite direction. We’ve been walking away from it all this time!”
We stopped at a pub on the way back, for a much appreciated rest, snack and cup of tea.
Wrong way sister – it was fun to see coaches with our last name on themWrong Way Sister – a section of Flodden Wall
Until We Return
I treasure the memories from that trip. I loved spending those 10 days with my sister. As the oldest sibling in my family, I always felt protective of my younger sisters and brother when we were children. I still feel protective, even now all these years later. Wandering about Edinburgh that protectiveness showed itself again. I wanted my sister to enjoy the experiences and arrive at our destinations, without getting lost!
In return I recognized that Debbie trusted me, completely. If I said, “It’s this way”, she turned around without question and headed the other direction. The only time we ended up not lost, but traveling to our destination the “long way around”, it was because we followed the GPS on my phone. Instinctively, I knew how to get to Dean Village in Edinburgh. I learned that day to trust myself the way Debbie trusts me. After exploring beautiful Dean Village, we arrived back at our apartment via the shorter route, the phone’s GPS silenced.
I look forward to more shared trips with my sister. One of my greatest desires is to travel and share experiences with my family members. My big WHY involves seeing that desire become reality.
After 10 glorious days in Scotland, Debbie and I bid Edinburgh “farewell until next time” and headed home. At JFK International Airport in New York, we sat wearily, waiting for our flight to Atlanta and then home.
Debbie excused herself to go to the ladies’ restroom. I watched her enter the restroom and happened to see her exit it as well a few minutes later. She hesitated for a moment, and then with confidence turned left and strolled down the wide hallway, away from me!
I chuckled. Wrong way sister was at it again. I knew she would eventually figure it out and turn around. I’d be waiting for her.
Wrong way sister – sibling love
Check out these travel finds from Amazon:
And check out the wonderful travel clothes from Mer Sea & Co
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This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my Disclosure Policy for details.
I’m excited to expand my writing into more travel related posts, as I have more travel experiences. One of my biggest dreams is to work remotely, from my laptop, anywhere in the world.
However, what is a traveler to do, when the whole world is under a travel ban? She revisits the places she’s been, via photos and memories. And she crafts stories from those previous trips.
Today I introduce the “Tales from…” Series with a funny story, The Pole Dancer, from a trip to Scotland in 2017. I hope you enjoy it. And watch for travel tales here each Friday…until this wanderer can wander again and deliver new content.
Tales from Scotland, The Pole Dancer
Stepping off the tour bus, we disembark into a changed Edinburgh. When our girls’ group began exploring the city that morning, people overflowed the surrounding landscape, covering streets and parks like an international patchwork quilt. Visitors from around the world jostled shoulders as they scrambled for buses or pulled up maps on their phones and set off on foot.
Now, nearby streets empty as weary wanderers move toward cheerful pubs and cafes, intent on refreshment. Even the piper on the corner has vanished, taking the signature sound of Scotland with him.
I glance at my tired traveling companions, my mother, sisters and niece, and shrug.
After spending the day wandering the city, including a tour of Edinburgh Castle, and shopping along the Royal Mile, we thankfully boarded the last hop on/hop off bus for the day. We looked forward to a hot meal and hotter showers and a good night’s sleep. Except…we missed our hop off spot. The bus parked for the night, with us still onboard.
We have options. The bus tours begin and end on Waverley Bridge, near the train station tucked into the heart of Edinburgh. The three span iron bridge we stand on literally connects medieval Old Town with 18th century New Town. Cabs regularly swing through this area, assured of a steady stream of arrivals.
“Are you ladies lost?”Â
A guide approaches us, a smile on his round face. An unruly thatch of gray hair caps his head, and in spite of the long day, his good humor remains intact. Laugh lines frame bright blue eyes that disappear when he chuckles. His rumpled white shirt stretches over a rounded belly. GEORGE is etched across his name tag.
George sees damsels in distress. He nobly offers assistance. We like him immediately.
He listens as we share our dilemma. We aren’t lost, we explain, only temporarily displaced. Perhaps George can flag down a cab for us? He concocts a better plan.
“Where are you staying?” he inquires in his soft Scottish brogue.
The Pole Dancer – Edinburgh Church
A Private Joke
I supply the name and address of our serviced apartment near Grassmarket, south of Edinburgh Castle.
George’s reaction surprises us. He rocks back on his heels, his smile widening. Laughter bubbles up and George waves other guides over. As he tells our story, they raise eyebrows and chuckle too. The band of guides shares some private joke and we aren’t in on it.
Wiping his eyes, George steers us toward a bus, empty except for the seated driver. “My friend, please take these ladies back to their apartment,” George instructs. “They’ve had a long day in our city.”
The Pole Dancer – enjoying the Royal Mile
An Impromptu Game of Charades
The driver nods. George gives him the address. His mouth quirking into a lopsided smile, the driver looks at us with amusement as we settle gratefully into seats.
“Okay, what’s so funny about where we’re staying?” I ask.
In response, George hops into the bus. With an infectious grin, he prances toward the metal pole nearest us. Placed there to steady standing travelers, George has other intentions.
Humming, the Scotsman grabs the pole and dances, surprisingly agile. He twirls around and throws back his head, amid cheers from guides gathered near the bus door. Hooking one leg around the pole, George looks at us, expectantly.
Our dancer plays a spontaneous game of charades. My family members exchange glances as understanding comes. He’s pole dancing, as a clue! Â
We are incredulous. “Are we staying in Edinburgh’s red light district?”Â
Applause from the guides confirms the guess. The driver snorts and waves George off his bus. He exits with a wink and an admonition to behave ourselves.
The Pole Dancer – Our view of the castle, from our five star lodging
A Street with a View
As the bus pulls away from the curb, we look back at George and wave. Laughing, he performs another little twirl on the sidewalk and bows.Â
Walking up to our apartment building, we stop and really look at our surroundings. We arrived late the night before, eyes captivated by our first sight of Edinburgh Castle perched high on its volcanic rock. And we left eager for adventure that morning. Now, turning slowly in a circle, we realize that our five star lodging is located in the middle of strip clubs, lap dance parlors and adult shows. No wonder George and the other guides laughed. We are amused too.
My sister Debbie recently returned with me to Edinburgh, my favorite city in all the world. We stayed in a different serviced apartment, in New Town. However, every time our hop on/hop off bus passed through Grassmarket, we peered up the hill toward our previous lodging. And we smiled, remembering George, our rescuer, our pole dancer.
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While in Scotland, my sister Debbie and I spent five wonderful days connecting with new family members from Clan Maitland. The other meaningful connection that we deepened was with the city itself.
Edinburgh captured our hearts on previous visits. This trip, with Edinburgh as our home base, we set out to get to know the city better and strengthen the bond.
Wandering through Edinburgh became a daily, intentional adventure.
Fun Facts About Edinburgh
 capital of Scotland and second largest city, with Glasgow the biggest
 population of 512,000 (as of 2016)
 Scottish Gaelic name – Dun Eideann, meaning “hill of Eidyn”
 nickname – Auld Reekie, so called because the smoke from chimneys hung over the city in ancient times
 earliest known habitation, a Mesolithic Camp on Castle Rock about 8500 BC
 documented evidence of royal burgh in early 1100s with a charter signed by King David I
divided into Old Town and New Town, with “new” being a relative term – building began in the 1770s
 Edinburgh was surrounded by a high stone wall until the 1700s – the limited space birthed 10 and 11 story dwellings, the first “high rise apartments”
 27 year old architect James Craig won the 1766 competition to design New Town
 Edinburgh is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
 Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh Castle both rest atop extinct volcanoes
 Edinburgh Castle houses the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny
 Leith is the port of Edinburgh – last shipyard closed in 1983 – now used for cruise ships and to dock the Royal Yacht Britannia, the queen’s former floating palace
 Temperatures average 72 degrees in the summer – the hottest temperature ever recorded was 88.9 degrees on July 25, 2019 (Debbie and I experienced that record breaking heat!)
Part of the original city wall, near the pub called The End of the World. To those living within, the wall marked the true end of their known world.Leith Port, on the Firth of Forth.Wandering Through Edinburgh on Hop On Hop Off Buses
Getting to Know Edinburgh
Those facts about the city offer important information, just as personal details about a new acquaintance does. Green eyes, dark hair, shy smile. Capital city, located in Lothian, hosts the largest performing arts festival in the world. However it takes going beyond the facts to create a relationship. And how do we get to know someone better? We spend time with her, listen to her stories and walk alongside her for a while. We look for strengths to appreciate and choose to accept differences.
To get to know Edinburgh better, Debbie and I did the same. We spent time with her, explored her lanes and listened to her stories.
We began with the bigger picture….riding the hop on/hop off buses around the city to get an overview. Then we tugged on our walking shoes and hiking boots and hit the streets.
Our apartment on Thistle Street, located in New Town, provided an excellent base of operations. We found it easy to explore both Old Town and New Town from that strategic place.
Farther out, requiring a bus ride, lies the Royal Botanic Garden, Leith Port and enchanting residential neighborhoods with their Georgian style buildings.
Looking down Hanover Street, in New Town, toward the Firth of Forth.The Elephant House in Old Town. We enjoyed a vegan lunch and cups of tea here while it rained.
Wandering Through Edinburgh
As we wandered, we got to know the city by listening to her stories. The knowledgeable tour guides on the buses entertained us with tales from the ancient past and the recent past. Every guide shared different parts of Edinburgh’s story, so the more buses we rode, the more we learned.
Occasionally we used a taxi to reach our destination. During those short rides the drivers kept us laughing and inspired questions, which they happily answered.
Every person, every city has its dark side. Edinburgh does as well. The Dark Edinburgh Walking Tour shared stories about witch trials, mythical creatures, public executions (marked on the street by small gold plaques) and the daring escapades of body snatchers Burke and Hare. Those two enterprising men killed people and sold their bodies to the medical institutes! They eventually paid the price for their crimes, with their lives.
Mostly, though, we learned by following curiosity. If we wondered about something, we checked it out. Interesting shops drew us inside. Wandering through Edinburgh, led by curiosity and the desire to know more, created amazing days of exploration that most certainly deepened our knowledge and our love for the city.
Canongate Tolbooth on the Royal Mile.Looking down the Royal Mile.
Saying “Until Next Time” to Edinburgh
Debbie and I said our goodbyes on a Saturday evening to members of Clan Maitland. And we said our goodbyes to the grand old city the next day. Wandering through Edinburgh on Sunday, we shopped a bit, took photos, gathered memories. (Read this post about creating art from memories.) We occasionally sighed.
Connection is all about developing a relationship. We did that with our kinsmen. We did that with Edinburgh as well. The best relationships, the ones that endure, grow through gratitude, exploration and discovering fresh ways to love and appreciate each other.
My relationship, Debbie’s relationship, with Edinburgh continues to grow. I look forward to discovering more about this city and seeing it with ever wondering eyes. I’m open to every opportunity to visit again and wander the streets and closes and lanes. I love Edinburgh. I think the feeling is mutual. So it’s not goodbye. It’s until next time….
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